By now, you’ve already seen how Hurricane Danielle flicked swell to large swaths of Europe’s western realms on Saturday. But one of the standouts was Portugal’s Nazare. It didn't have to be 80ft faces for a couple of frothers to get their fix.
Yeah, there were only four or five people in. Probably because even at this size, ‘the world’s biggest wave’ is incredibly unforgiving. Sooner to spit you out than let you in, and sooner to gobble boards and fill you with sand. The beachie here breaks further along from the colossal peaks we’re used to seeing out of Praia do Norte but it’s just as spectacle heavy.
Unless your names are To Cardoso and Tony Laureano, who was victim to Nazare’s entry requirements.
“There were some great waves out there,” he told MSW. “I was surfing a 6'2" and there was a perfect wave, huge peak and this one wave, I was so late to get into it. But I still tried, the wave was so powerful I couldn’t get the rail engaged.
“But it was good, in the morning we towed with my father for training for the upcoming season. The time for big waves is almost here! Then the afternoon, we thought maybe it was going to be good. Went to the beachbreak and it was epic, two metres, maybe bigger, offshore, five people in the water, it was literally the dream.”
After showing To the images from Helio Antonio. “I love my friend, Helio. Always gets great pics. Man, you know, I’m just stoked to be back home. Nazare is the place to be at the moment. Never been so easy to adapt to cold water again after three months scoring Indo.
“Saturday, the sets were big and it was a solid 15ft or so. Really hard to paddle out with the gun so I just had a heavy bodyboard session closer to the cliff. And at the end of the day, it dropped half the size with the tide getting low, clean sets and light wind, perfect for paddling. I rode a 6'6" and the best part, there was no one out. Four or five guys paddling all afternoon spread out through that huge playground.”
Helio added: "Tony Laureano came running down the beach and was losing his mind while putting on the wetsuit. It was pretty much paradise for a heavy surf barrel addict and these beautiful lefts rolling on the sandbar were making him scream of joy.
"A lot of waves went unridden. Beautiful, powerful lefts (some rights) breaking on a warm summer day, perfect light conditions, couldn't ask for anything more. I had a blast shooting and left the beach by night, feeling ecstatic for finally witnessing amazing waves. I finally had my dose of ocean lust."
Hurricane Earl, arriving tomorrow, is not one for Portugal but it is golden for other spots. See HERE.