© 2023 - Nigel Aird.
MSW Wave of the Day: Jayce Robinson and the Greatest Cornish Barrel... Ever?!
By Jason Lock on
Yesterday, a new XL swell began hammering western Europe. Surf spots from the top of the Scottish Highlands, right down to the bottom of Portugal's Algarve region have had a decent run of waves, once the wind backed down in the afternoon.
Meanwhile, in the UK's Duchy of Cornwall, you had to be on it in the morning to make the most of this swell, even if that meant finding shelter from 65kph wind.
Former UK surf champ Jayce Robinson is an expert at exactly that, his local being a sheltered spot that can cop the brunt of gale force wind, and come out singing.
"There was actually a small window of offshore wind in the morning," he told MSW, after expertly navigating through the above sand-bottomed barrel.
"Honestly, I wasn't expecting a wave like that at all. It felt like one of the best barrels I've ever had in this country. I got in around 8am and must have been paddling around for an hour, an hour and a half. Then I saw this come in and had to go.
"I had a moment in there where I thought I was definitely gone, had air under my board. Luckily, I was on a 6'2” today and think that extra bit of length allowed me to stay on."
It is not often Cornwall looks like this though. "It felt like nothing I've ever felt out there before," said Robinson. "It was like, an outer reef in Ireland. Surges of water were washing up the beach. Now, just going to enjoy sipping a G+T after that session."
As videographer Nigel Aird puts it: “It's the best UK barrel ride I've ever seen.”