Stormriding India

Even the word surf is apparently derived from the Indian word suffe meaning coastline and there is a massive 7000km (4350mi) of that. While the SW flank of India is undoubtedly the richest in wave resources, just cast an eye up the west coast and many other possibilities exist. The swell is usually from the S to W quadrant, in line with the dominant winds, plus a NW swell can also appear from Arabian Sea disturbances. May to Sept is prime time for swells up to 15ft (5m) that just need a calm wind to organize themselves at one of the 200 rivermouths, countless beaches or man-made jetties that provide some much needed shape to the waves. Low to mid tides are usually better as high tides can create a bad shorepound or just make the waves disappear.

Way up north, SurfingIndia.net shows the left point at Dwaraka as the wave to check amongst the long, flat beaches of Gujarat State. Maharashtra would appear to be disadvantaged by a wide continental shelf and silted up beaches around the myriad river deltas surrounding Mumbai, but there are some long rivermouth waves to be found close to Alibag, plus good beaches, reefs and points.

Goa is so familiar to many as party central around Christmas, yet mid-year will see regular chest-high days and a pick of the peaks at Baga, Calungute and Candolim, plus there are spots further north with the kiteboarders at Arambol and Vagator or further south around Benaulim and Palolem. Nothing special, but fun, empty and warm. Gokarna is a popular hang out, with cheap accommodation and a powerful shoredump at high tide. Near the centre of Karnataka State, Murdeshwara offers clean beachbreaks in SW or NW onshores on either side of the peninsula, beneath the huge meditating statue of Shiva.

Further south at Bhatkal, a series of cliff-lined coves offer multiple opportunities in a SW swell. Maravanthe is also dubbed 10,000 Peaks as the 6km stretch throws up an endless supply of corners and close-outs in equal measure. There's a short, speedy right off the lighthouse at Kapu Beach, followed by miles of average beachbreak in either direction. The Ashram Surf Retreat uses the Shambhavi River and a fast boat to access local breaks like Baba's Left, Tree Line, Swami's and Water Tank around Mulki, north of Mangalore.

Crossing into Kerala sees consistency and size improve plus the appearance of more piers and jetties, which can provide stormy surf protection around Mahe from Thalassery to the big rivermouth at Talakkolattur. Between Mahe and Cherai is fairly straight and un-exciting except around the rivermouths and jetties. Kerala is one of the most surfed areas in the country and could be at the embryonic stage of a blossoming surf culture, since Kerala Tourism commissioned ASR to build a multi-purpose, artificial surf reef at Kovalam, Kerala. Upon completion in early 2010, this video footage of the new 'Kovalam reef' shows an organised, peeling lip line and a top to bottom power not usually associated with this coastline.

Hotspot

Kovalam has cheap hotels, laid-back places to hang out and coach-loads of tourists arrive daily, usually heading to the swell protected northern beach that is mostly flat. Hawa Beach faces directly into the SW swell and wind, making for messy lefts forming off the scattered rocks at the southern end. Lighthouse Beach is highly consistent and was chosen as the site of the ASR artificial reef. However, since the onset of the monsoon, reports suggest that the geo-textile bags forming the artificial 'reef' at the southern end of the beach have moved and it isn't working as perfectly. There are are other peaks at the north end of the beach.

On the Bay of Bengal coastline in Tamil Nadu state is the spot called Alwars at Manapad Point - one the best surf spots in India. It is far off the beaten track and not easily accessible. The point is a beautifully formed ancient lava flow that extends into the water and when the rights are working, expect up to 400 metre rides followed by a long walk back to the point. A fair way up the east coast, just out of the Sri Lankan swell shadow, is Pondicherry and Auroville, steep beaches and a few jetty breaks that can get good in big monsoon or cyclone swells.

Towards Chennai, coastal armoring that protects the ancient Mahabalipuram Shore Temple has helped catch the sand and funnel some hollow righthanders down the point. Picks up S swell and bends it in, but loses a lot of size in the process so June to September is the time to go. Another good wave in this area is Big Rock, a proper left barrel over a rock shelf, just next to the reliable right point of Fisherman's Cove.

The next state north is Andhra Pradesh. South of Visakhapatnam, the marshy, sandy delta of the Krishna River sculpts some rivermouth bars that could have their day in SE swells and NW winds, rewarding those willing to put in a massive effort getting there. Finding a boat would make it much easier and safer to explore. There's a long right at one of the mouths of the Godavari near Odalaravu that if it lined-up would be a 2km ride. Visagapatanam is where the action is with a series of right points strung out over a 30km stretch of coastline including Lawson's Bay (see hotspot); Tenneti Park; Mangamari; Bhimuni and much further north is Sandy Point.

Hotspot

Lawson's Bay in the town of Kailashgiri, is a 500m+ (547yd) ride from take-off to the beach. The outside needs to be glassy to be rideable and the rock suck-outs can be intimidating but really give the wave some powerful sections. After a series of cutbacks, the wave reforms and there's some aerial action close to shore with the backwash!

Way up north in Orissa State, the S groundswell train starts to run out of steam, while the windswell from the SW has more fetch, creating short period, chopped up swells that add to the mix. Wind is reliably cross-shore, but gone are the headlands of Visag, replaced by endless straight beachbreaks. Puri is the known surf spot as well as being a pilgrimage site for the tallest temple in India, Jagannatha. Shorebreak when it is small turns to consistent lines of whitewash as size increases, making the paddle to the outside peaks a real chore, compounded by the longshore drift.

Although they are a territory of India, The Andaman and Nicobar Islands are a long way from home, acting as the dividing line between the Bay of Bengal and the Andaman Sea. Of the 550 islands, only a handful of them have been surfed and there is undoubtedly more spots to be discovered, especially in the north of the chain where swell regularity is much lower. Plenty of problems revolve around access, which is heavily restricted to most indigenous tribal regions.

Hotspot

Rumours that Kumari Point had gone the way of the dinosaurs since the massive earthquake and tsunami of 2004 were a little exaggerated. Yes, the reef did lift out of the water and what was a ridiculously long wave has been shortened considerably. The line-up is somewhat sectiony now, but the end section is fine - plenty long enough and perhaps even more hollow, chucking out cylindrical pits with mechanical precision. Prerequisites include plenty of S in the swell and N in the wind, a proper boat and an appetite for barrel riding in the middle of nowhere.

A blanket ban exists for foreigners to travel to the Nicobar Islands, ostensibly for the protection of the indigenous tribal groups, unique flora and fauna. Even tsunami relief aid workers were denied entry to the Nicobars, leading some to believe the protection is for the strategic air and naval bases on Car and Great Nicobar. Apparently, no permit is required for Indian nationals. Recently, some Indian surfers explored this area and found some amazing world-class surf on the southwest coast of Great Nicobar, plus some tasty reefs and righthand pointbreaks along the SE coast up to the main area of habitation at Campbell Bay, where a fun peak hits the breakwall in a strong S swell. Car Nicobar, Teressa and Katchal Island all have ample swell exposure from the S-W, along with the promising reef bathymetry and Teressa and Katchal Island have been surfed by passing yachts (without permits).

Photography

Indica™ - Royalty Free Stock Photos of India

Dustin Ellison Photography - California native, now 29, and living in Mexico. Spent last 3+ years living and traveling throughout India and surfing its warm empty waters. Dustin's love for surfing and his eagerness to travel the world have helped him to produce images that become a realistic journey into each place he visits. Dustin has had his work published in Surfer's Path, Australian Surfing Life, and several other surf publications. 

John Callahan - John Seaton Callahan is originally from Hawaii, he now lives in Singapore. He photographs with passion around the world, with a particular preference for tropical places, beautiful women, and locations with good surfing conditions. His photos are published worldwide. New material is uploaded, captioned, and keyworded frequently on his Tropicalpix website.

Rammohan Photography - Took up photography at the age of 17 and now at the age of 21 he is a travel photographer and runs a stock photo agency online. While he is the only surf photographer in the whole of Indian sub continent, he doesn't limit himself to any particular genre of photography and enjoys shooting almost anything and everything.

Emi Mazzoni - Editor and staff photographer for Surf News Magazine, Italy