SWELL ALERT: Huge Pulse for Nazare

Tony Butt

by on

Updated 215d ago

A big, clean, long-period swell is hitting Nazaré as we speak.

The long-period swell generated by a deep low pressure that tracked across the North Atlantic earlier this week, is hitting Nazaré right now, and will peak sometime early tomorrow morning. The system stalled about 800 km south of Iceland and then turned north as a ridge of high pressure built over the Iberian Peninsula. This allowed the swell to remain clean and lined-up as it tracked southwards.

This is what is hitting Nazare right now. A solid WNW swell maxing at 13ft@18seconds. Tomorrow morning is going to be interesting.

This is what is hitting Nazare right now. A solid WNW swell maxing at 13ft@18seconds. Tomorrow morning is going to be interesting.

At the moment, sets of around 15 to 20 feet are already showing, with fairly bumpy conditions from moderate local winds from the south. The swell itself is solid and lined-up from the west-northwest. That bump is expected to disappear overnight as winds go calm or light offshore.

Tomorrow morning should see clean conditions until around the middle of the day when a light onshore creates a superficial bump. The longest periods – around 19 secs – are arriving at the moment, with the period dropping to around 16 secs by morning then holding steady for the rest of the day. Wave heights peak overnight then gradually decrease during tomorrow. Expect sets exceeding 20 feet.

Cover shot: Axi Muniain by Rafael Riancho