The One Legged Warrior

On the day Hercules hit, Rik "Pegleg" Bennett paddled out alone at St Agnes, Cornwall, eager to exploit the largest rideable swell in recent memory. The 44-year-old father of five had his left leg amputated below the knee when still a baby, but doesn't let that deter him when conditions get critical. The captions above tell Rik's story of the swell.