"It Could Have Killed Me" Friday's XL Nazare

Jason Lock

by on

Updated 33d ago

Nazare jacked into the XL region on Friday, a couple days after that opening session last week. Though, this time, with a short surf window (that wind got funky later on), crews geared up at first light for a tow morning at Praia do Norte. And, as Wednesday, not so much an all-time session but this was one for your big wave hellmen and women to get feet in wax, to feel fresh foam before the those true Nazare caps rifle into the coastline.

Your cast of protagonists this time round? Most of the names you'd come to expect when Nazare jacks up including Justine Dupont, Nuno Santos, Sebastian Steudtner, Danilo Couto, Marcelo Luna, Lucas Chumbo, Cotty, Fransico Porcella, Rafael Tapia and Rodrigo Koxa - the man who holds the record for biggest wave ever surfed.

How's that swell looking? A hyper active North Atlantic  pumped swell into Portugal, creating all you see throughout this feature. See the chart HERE.

How's that swell looking? A hyper active North Atlantic pumped swell into Portugal, creating all you see throughout this feature. See the chart HERE.

Unfortunately, Marcelo had an incident with another ski and ended up copping one of the most savage floggings on the inside. "It could have killed me", relays Marcelo who's now out for six weeks, possibly more and sparking Mr Luna to speak out about the organisation of skis in the lineup at Nazare.

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6 semanas sem surfar, e poderia ser para sempre... Obrigado Alemão e Lucas que fizeram o meu resgate colado as pedras e salvaram a minha vida #Gratidão Mas o tema que precisa ser abordado é o que ocasionou a queda e resgate, pois desde o ano passado percebemos uma DESORGANIZAÇÃO dentro d’água da parte dos jet skis! “SURFISTAS E PILOTOS” a onda se espera no OUTSIDE e não debaixo do pico, os que fazem isso, não importa quem seja, ESTÁ ERRADO. Isso que aconteceu poderia ter me matado! JET SKI DE BACKUP ficam em baixo, porém se precisarem fugir SAIAM PARA O LADO QUE NÃO ATRAPALHE O SURFISTA. NO INSIDE não se espera onda. Isso aqui é a manifestação pacífica para evitar uma morte! JET SKIS NO OUTSIDE —————————————————— 6 weeks without surfing, and could be forever... thank you Alemão and Lucas who made my ransom dressed stones and saved my life #gratitude. But the theme that needs to be addressed is what caused the fall and redemption, because since last year we realized a DISORGANIZATION within d'água on the part of jet skis! "surfers and drivers" the wave is expected on the outside and not under the peak, those who do this, no matter who it is, is wrong. That what happened could have killed me! BACKUP JET SKI are in low but if they need to flee SCAPE FOR THE SIDE THAT DID NOT disrupt the surfer. On the inside is not expected wave. This is the peaceful demonstration to avoid a death! JET SKIS ON OUTSIDE #SavingLifes #RESPECT #RULES . @deb.bach . . @alex_botelho @joaodemacedo7 @marcoescadote @hugovau @jorge.pacelli @polvo32 @franciscoporcella @danilocouto11 @mcnamara_s @andrew_cotty @marciano.surf @mfd_inc @alexwippel @langerds @whitewaterwilly @yusurf @carlosburle @lucaschumbo @nuno_santos_violino @maya @sebastiansurfs @ericrebiere @sergiocosmico @rodrigokoxa @nicvonrupp @theyounglamb @coconogales @tonylaureano_surf @antoniosilvasurfer @jetresgateportugal @patoteixeira @tobytrouble @rcj6666

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Queria estar postando outras fotos, surfando ondas, e não lutando pra viver.. Mas já que aconteceu, vou lutar para que meu caso seja o ÚLTIMO e ninguém morra em Nazaré .. ———————————————————————— Wish to be posting other photos, surfing waves, and not struggling to live. But since that happened, I will fight for my case to be the LAST and nobody dies in Nazaré.. .. #SavingLifes #RESPECT #RULES @tim_bonython . . @luna.co_ @kennyd @pref_sbc @studyforlifee @pansaraugmented @nazaclean_renthouse @akiosurfboards @lasersurfboards @ahu.surf @maria.parafina @alohacouple_br @powerbalance_brasil @fit_perform @studio_piovesan @physioclem_ @municipiodanazare

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"Marcelo Luna found out how dangerous this all can be when he fell off his board because of another jet ski trail," said our man on the ground and the lensman responsible for all you see throughout, Helio Antonio. "He ended up floating alone in the worst possible place, for what looked like an eternity and we can thank Neptune, god of the ocean, that not a single wave broke during that time."

Helio's the man when it comes to capturing Nazare. “After Wednesday's session, another swell hit Nazare and it looked promising as it had more wave height, period and energy than the previous. Only catch, it was a small window cause the wind would pick up early. Taking no chances, everyone was in the water at first light,” he said.

Rodrigo Koxa.

Rodrigo Koxa.

© 2018 - Helio Antonio

About the amount of skis in the lineup, Helio told MSW: “Six years ago there would be only one or two teams in the water and yesterday I could count around 20 jets on the lineup. Everyone's after their dream, may it be fame or personal fulfilment and Nazare is the ultimate stop to reach it.”

Andrew Cotton.

Andrew Cotton.

© 2018 - Helio Antonio

And of the session? “Even with all the technology available nowadays, it's impossible to know exactly how the waves are gonna look. Though in theory this would be a more hardcore session than the last one, the waves just weren't hitting the sand banks like we usually see in Nazare waters. Of course the unicorn of Nazare - A-frame by the rocks - was providing a show of it's own, but surfing it is next to impossible. Still it didn't stop all the guys and girls out there trying to catch some bombs.

© 2018 - Helio Antonio

“Justine was very active, scoring more waves than a lot of guys out there. Her focus and commitment is inspiring and it's a matter of time until she grabs a real monster.

Justine Dupont.

Justine Dupont.

© 2018 - Helio Antonio

“Local guy Nuno Santos scored the best wave of the day. Maybe not the biggest in size but definitely the one with the best shape. Overall it was a good training day for those insanely huge sets we hope to see again this season.”

Nuno Santos.

Nuno Santos.

© 2018 - Helio Antonio

Wondering how this colossal mountain was formed on Friday? “A squeeze of isobars containing an area of storm-force northwest winds formed around the southern periphery of a large low in the North Atlantic on Tuesday and persisted for about 36 hours,” says MSW forecaster Tony Butt.

“This generated a pulse of large, long-period swell that arrived at Nazare overnight Thursday. A westerly fetch stretching out into the Atlantic west of Portugal was already producing some large, average-quality underlying swell to which this pulse added an extra boost, pushing breaking wave heights at Nazaré from around 20 feet on Thursday to a much more solid 25-plus on Friday morning, with peak periods jumping from around 13 to 17 secs.”

Don't forget to keep an eye on the charts, HERE.

Cover shot; Sebastian Steudtner, seeking that XL award.

Rafael Tapia.

Rafael Tapia.

© 2018 - Helio Antonio

Lucas Chumbo.

Lucas Chumbo.

© 2018 - Helio Antonio

© 2018 - Helio Antonio

© 2018 - Helio Antonio

© 2018 - Helio Antonio

© 2018 - Helio Antonio

Alemaode Maresias.

Alemaode Maresias.

© 2018 - Helio Antonio

© 2018 - Helio Antonio

For spectators, Nazare can deliver a display like no other.

For spectators, Nazare can deliver a display like no other.

© 2018 - Helio Antonio