It’s starting to feel a lot like autumn. Temperatures are dropping, snow is falling in the Rockies, the Gulf of Alaska is starting to churn out storms, and Europe is primed to pump. Meanwhile, our brothers and sisters down south are sliding their guns back into the rafters or booking tickets to the northern hemisphere. As October begins and the season deepens, much of the focus will be on the northern Atlantic. Here are a few spots worth checking out.
Wind conditions are looking a little suss, but then again, when is that not the case at the world’s biggest, wildest wedge? A massive Atlantic hurricane is set to send swell to Europe the first week of October, then double-down on itself and become an Arctic low that could very well send even larger swell the following week.
There are half a dozen XXL days on the mid-term forecast for Nazare, which means the tow brigade will be tuning up their skis this week—particularly with the expectation of a specialty tow event running sometime this season (replacing the former Big Wave World Tour paddle event, which has been cancelled along with Maverick’s).
Want to know when those XXL wave are going to go? Keep an eye on our Nazare forecast (and live cam) HERE.
US East Coast
The same hurricane sending XXL swell to Europe is already delivering swell to the East Coast, which has enjoyed a pretty active start to hurricane season. Hurricane Lorenzo peaked at a Cat 5 storm—the largest in history in the northeast Atlantic.
This is a great storm for just about everyone, as it is staying away from major land masses but sending swell in just about every direction. Waist- to head-high swell should continue for the East Coast into the first few days of October, stretching from North Carolina up to New England. Wind may be an issue, as could the long-period nature of the swell as it impacts beach breaks, but there will certainly be some corners that are pumping if you know where to look.
Related content: Hurricane Dorian's pumping east coast session.
Most of the world’s best surfers are en route to France, and not just because there’s a contest scheduled next week. The Quik Pro France is going to enjoy pretty much non-stop swell throughout the waiting period, and free surfs at surrounding breaks will likely be lighting up as well. Whether the banks will be able to handle the size and wind remains to be seen, but one thing is for certain—it isn’t going to be flat.
The area most likely to experience damage from Hurricane Lorezno is the Azores Islands, which are currently lying directly in the projected path of the storm. Lorenzo will hopefully downgrade to a Cat 3 storm before it hits the islands, but could still be catastrophic. While the rest of us enjoy the swell from this massive hurricane, let’s keep the Azore locals in our thoughts. Hopefully the storm’s projected trajectory shifts at the last minute, and they are end up scoring massive swell without the associated damage.
Region guide: Azores
We don’t hear much about the surf in Korea, but a recent edit from the region’s dedicated community confirms that there are waves when swell filters into the area—and the first week of October is going to be one of those instances. Halfway across the globe from Hurricane Lorezno, Typhoon Mitag’s current trajectory has it brushing Taiwan then swinging north toward Korea before fading out in the Sea of Japan. Between storm surges and squall lines, there may be some windows of clean conditions and powerful surf for the committed local or intrepid explorer.
Spot guide: South Korea
Cover shot of macking Nazare by Helio Antonio.